What You'll Need Before You Start
Learning how to wash high performance gear starts with three things: the care label, a mesh laundry bag, and the right detergent.
At The Dungeon, we build apparel for lifters who train hard and expect their clothes to survive it.
Here's what to gather before you wash anything:
The care label on each garment (this overrides every general rule)
A mesh laundry bag sized for one or two items
Mild liquid detergent made for synthetics or technical fabrics
High performance gear is clothing built from synthetic fabrics, stretch blends, and technical finishes designed to move sweat away from your skin.
Most damage happens in the first wash, not the fiftieth. Get the setup right and the rest is simple.
Step 1: Read the Care Label and Prep Your Gear
The care label is the manufacturer's instruction sheet, and it wins every argument. Read it before you touch the dials. Look for:
Water temperature (cold is almost always listed)
Wash cycle (gentle or delicate)
Bleach warnings (usually a hard no)
Then prep the garment itself. Small steps here prevent big problems later.
Empty every pocket A forgotten gym card or key can tear fabric or damage the drum.
Remove detachable components Elbow pads, hoods, and removable liners get washed separately or by hand.
Close all fasteners Zip zippers and button snaps so they don't snag other clothes.
Turn garments inside out This protects the outer face and lets detergent reach the sweat prone inner layer.
Pre treat stains and heavy sweat zones with a small amount of detergent before washing.
Watch Out - Washing technical clothing with open zippers and loose Velcro is one of the most common ways lifters shred their gear. The teeth catch on mesh, stretch panels, and other garments, and the damage is permanent.
Step 2: How to Wash Activewear Without Damaging Technical Fabrics
Wash activewear in cold water on a gentle cycle, inside out, with mild detergent and a mesh bag. That protects stretch fibers, wicking finishes, and seams from the two things that destroy them fastest: heat and friction.
Cycle, Temperature, and Inside-Out Loading
Set the machine to a gentle or delicate cycle with a cold water rinse. Hot water breaks down spandex and elastane over time, and it sets odor into synthetic fibers.
Load loosely. Technical fabrics need room to move, and an overloaded drum creates friction that leads to pilling and stretched seams.
Cold water - protects stretch and color
Gentle cycle - low agitation, less friction
Small loads - fewer items, less wear
A person turning a black performance training shirt inside out before loading it into a front loading washing machine, with a mesh laundry bag resting on top of the machine
Laundry Bags for Activewear: Protect Stretch and Zippers
Laundry bags for activewear are mesh pouches that keep zippers, straps, and stretch panels from snagging on the drum or other clothes, cheap insurance for expensive gear. Use one bag per one or two items; a stuffed bag defeats the purpose because the fabric still rubs against itself.
Step 3: Pick the Best Detergent for Activewear
The best detergent for activewear is a mild liquid formula free of fabric softener, dyes, and harsh brighteners, which coat synthetic fibers and block the wicking action that keeps you dry. But "mild liquid detergent" is only the starting point, a detergent safe for a compression base layer can still degrade a waterproof breathable shell. Avoid these across every fabric type:
How to Wash Your Athletic Clothes The Right Way
David Bueno Vallejo
Fabric softener - coats fibers and kills moisture transfer
Powder detergents - can leave residue in technical weaves
Bleach - breaks down stretch fibers
Use about half the detergent you'd use for a normal load. Technical fabrics need less soap, and too much detergent is a leading cause of lingering odor because residue traps bacteria.
Match the Detergent to the Fabric Technology
Most high performance gear falls into one of five construction families, each reacting differently to soap chemistry. Read the care label first, it overrides everything below, then use this guide to what to look for on the bottle.
Moisture wicking synthetics (polyester, nylon, spandex blends) - These are the most detergent tolerant technical fabrics, but they are also the most prone to odor because polyester attracts oils. Use a mild liquid detergent, and consider a sports specific formula that lists enzyme or chelating agents on the label; those ingredients target the body oil residue that ordinary detergent leaves behind. Avoid anything labeled "with fabric softener" or "with scent beads."
Waterproof-breathable shells (rain jackets, wind shells, ski shells) - The membrane and the durable water repellent (DWR) face finish are the parts that fail first. Use a mild liquid detergent with no softener, no bleach, and no optical brighteners. Some manufacturers sell a dedicated technical wash for shells; if the care label names one, use it. Never use a detergent that advertises "extra whitening" or "stain fighting enzymes" on a shell unless the label approves it, because aggressive additives can strip the DWR.
Durable water repellent (DWR) finishes - DWR is a surface treatment that makes water bead and roll off. It is not permanent. Detergent residue and body oils mask it, and harsh surfactants can wear it down faster. Wash DWR treated gear with a mild liquid detergent and skip the rinse aid; if the label recommends a DWR specific wash, that product is formulated to clean without leaving a film that hides the finish.
How Much Detergent, and When to Use Less
People often over soap technical laundry because it doesn't produce the suds they expect from cotton loads. Start with half the recommended dose, and if suds cling to the drum door after the cycle, cut it further. Residue is easier to prevent than to remove. For stubborn items, add a scoop of oxygen cleaner to cold water and soak for 30 minutes before washing, but check the care label first, and skip this on waterproof breathable shells and compression wear unless the manufacturer approves it.
Pro Tip - If you are unsure which detergent to buy, choose a fragrance free, dye free liquid labeled for technical or athletic fabrics. It is the safest default across all five fabric families, and it will not leave the film that ordinary scented detergent can deposit on wicking and DWR surfaces.
Step 4: How to Remove Odor from Workout Clothes
To remove odor from workout clothes, soak them in a mix of cold water and white vinegar, then wash as normal. Vinegar breaks down the bacteria and detergent residue that cause persistent smell in synthetics.
Sweat itself doesn't smell. Bacteria feeding on sweat and trapped body oils do. That's why a shirt can smell fine after one wash and rank after three.
Try this routine for stubborn odor:
Soak the garment in cold water with half a cup of white vinegar for 30 minutes.
Add a spoonful of baking soda to the wash cycle for extra odor lift.
Wash promptly after workouts instead of letting damp gear sit in a gym bag.
Air dry fully before it goes back in the drawer or bag.
Pro Tip - Never leave sweaty gear balled up in a gym bag overnight. Bacteria multiply fast in damp fabric, and odor that sets in becomes much harder to remove. Hang gear to dry the moment you get home.
Step 5: Drying High Performance Gear Safely
Air dry high performance gear whenever you can. If you must use a dryer, choose the lowest heat setting and pull items out while still slightly damp. Heat shrinks stretch fibers, warps seams, and degrades the finishes that make technical clothing work.
Follow these rules:
Hang or lay flat to dry in a well ventilated space
Skip direct sun for long periods, which can fade color and weaken fibers
Use low heat only if you're in a hurry
Never put technical clothing in a hot dryer "just to finish it off." That last ten minutes is where most heat damage happens.
Dry by Fabric Type, Not by Habit
The right drying method depends on what the garment is made of, because each construction family fails differently:
Moisture wicking synthetics and compression wear - Hang or lay flat. These fabrics dry fast on their own, and tumble drying adds friction that pills the surface and stresses elastane. If you use a dryer at all, use the lowest heat setting and remove while slightly damp.
Waterproof breathable shells - Hang to dry. Some manufacturers specify tumble dry low on the care label because a short, low heat cycle can help redistribute the DWR finish, but only follow that if the label says so. Never dry a shell on high heat, and never dry clean one unless the label explicitly allows it.
Insulated garments - Lay flat or hang, and use dryer balls only if the label approves them. Low heat with dryer balls can help restore loft to synthetic fill, but high heat can melt or clump it. Check the label before improvising.
Restoring Water Repellency After Washing
If water stops beading on a shell and starts soaking into the face fabric, "wetting out", the DWR finish needs attention. This is normal wear, not a defect, and it usually happens long before the waterproof membrane fails. Here's how to tell when a garment needs treatment and what to do:
Test the finish - Sprinkle a few drops of water on the dry shell. If they bead and roll off, the DWR is working. If the fabric darkens and absorbs the water, the finish is compromised.
Wash first, then re-treat - Dirt, body oils, and detergent residue can mask a DWR that is still present. Wash the shell with a mild liquid detergent and rinse thoroughly before assuming the finish is gone.
Apply a DWR treatment if the label allows it - Manufacturers sell spray on and wash in repellent treatments. Follow the product instructions and the garment care label; spray on treatments are generally easier to apply evenly to a shell, while wash in products are formulated for specific fabric types. Do not apply a treatment to a garment the label says should not be treated.
Reactivate with low heat if the label permits - Some DWR finishes respond to a short tumble on low heat, which can help the repellent spread and bond. Only do this if the care label allows tumble drying.
People often replace a shell that "stopped working" when the membrane is fine and only the surface finish needs renewal. A wash and a re treatment is far cheaper than a new jacket.
Troubleshooting Drying Problems
Musty smell after drying - The garment was not fully dry before storage, or it sat damp too long. Re wash with a vinegar soak and dry completely.
Stiff or crunchy shell - Detergent residue is the usual cause. Run an extra rinse cycle with no detergent, then air dry.
Pilling on wicking fabrics - Friction during washing or drying. Use mesh bags, smaller loads, and air dry going forward.
Watch Out - Do not store gear damp, and do not leave it in a gym bag or hamper overnight. Mildew and odor bacteria set in fast, and a garment that smells after drying usually needs to be re washed rather than spot treated.
Restoring Technical Performance After Washing
If your gear has stopped wicking or still smells after washing, residue is usually the culprit. Detergent buildup, fabric softener, and body oils clog the fibers and block moisture transfer.
Here's how to reset performance:
Wash twice with no detergent on the second cycle to rinse out buildup
Soak in vinegar and water to strip residue and odor
Skip softener entirely from now on
A common mistake is assuming gear is worn out when it's just coated in soap. Many pieces bounce back after a proper strip wash.
Common Mistakes That Ruin High Performance Gear
Most ruined gear dies from a handful of avoidable habits:
Mistake What Happens The Fix - Hot water wash Stretch breaks down, odor sets in Cold water only Fabric softener Wicking stops working Skip it entirely Overloading the washer Pilling and stretched seams Small, loose loads Leaving sweat to sit Bacteria locks in odor Wash promptly, air dry Hot dryer Shrinkage and finish damage Air dry or low heat Too much detergent Residue traps odor Use half the normal amount
Technical clothing and workout clothes are an investment. Treat them like sports equipment, not a pile of cotton, and they'll hold their shape, stretch, and odor control far longer.
Key Takeaway - The single biggest upgrade to your gear's lifespan is cold water, mild detergent, and air drying. Everything else is a detail on top of those three habits.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you use fabric softener on activewear and high performance gear?
No. Fabric softener coats synthetic fibers with a waxy layer that blocks moisture wicking and traps odor causing bacteria. That coating is also hard to rinse out, so the problem builds up over time. Skip softener entirely and use a mild detergent instead. If your gear feels stiff after washing, a short soak in a mix of water and a cup of white vinegar restores softness without leaving residue. Air drying also keeps technical fabrics feeling softer than high heat.
What temperature should you wash gym clothes in?
Cold water, generally 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, is the safest choice for high performance gear. Heat breaks down spandex and elastane, shrinks synthetic blends, and sets sweat odor into the fibers. Use cold water for everyday washes and reserve warm water only for heavily soiled items that the care label allows. Hot water above 105 degrees Fahrenheit should stay off your technical clothing entirely. Cold washing also cuts energy costs and helps colors hold longer.
Should you air dry or machine dry activewear?
Air-dry whenever possible. Hang or lay flat high performance gear in a ventilated spot away from direct sun, which can fade dyes and degrade elastic. If you need a machine, use the lowest heat setting and remove items while slightly damp. High heat is the fastest way to shrink a training shirt and kill the stretch in compression pieces. Turning garments inside out and drying them flat also keeps seams and prints from cracking.
Can you wash activewear in a laundry bag?
Yes, and you should. Laundry bags for activewear keep straps, zippers, and drawstrings from snagging other garments or wrapping around the drum. They also reduce friction that causes pilling on synthetic blends. Choose a mesh bag sized to let water and detergent flow freely, and avoid overstuffing it. Close zippers and fasteners before loading, and wash similar colors together. Bags are especially useful for sports bras, compression shorts, and anything with a printed logo you want to protect.
Your gear takes a beating in the gym. The wash cycle shouldn't be what finishes it off. At The Dungeon, we build premium street to gym athletic wear designed for durability and performance, so it holds up through heavy training and everyday wear. Our apparel combines gym ready function with bold streetwear style, and members get exclusive pricing and releases. Join the inner circle and gear up with clothing built to survive the grind.
